PROBLEMS AND FIXES

I am having a severe problem with my NX stalling when stopping at lights and such.

Vito Biundo (v...@cec.wustl.edu)

I had the same problem last summer and it was the AAC. valve setting (or more specifically the idle adjust screw setting). I had never performed any idle adjustments on the car. When I disconnected the AAC valve, my engine would stall.

It turns out that my ECU behaves differently than what is stated in the service manual. Disconnecting the TPS forces the AAC valve to fully open instead of fully close. A technician at the local Infiniti dealer told me that the AAC valve harness must be disconnected in order to adjust the base idle on my particular my model.

In studying this problem, I came across an easy way to monitor what the AAC valve is doing. I discovered that an intermediate connector for the AAC was located just under the distributor. Using a paperclip and a multimeter, I was able to watch the opening of the valve as I applied a load to the engine at idle (turned the defroster and headlights on). The service manual states that the potential between ECU terminal 113 and ground should be 9 to 14 V at idle speed and between 5 and 9 V at idle speed with a load on the engine (A/C on, turning the steering wheel, rear defogger on, headlights on). This was the method that I used to confirm that my AAC valve is fully open when the TPS is disconnected.

If you would like any more information on my discoveries in the area of idle adjusting and the AAC valve, let me know.

Fix for the engine running rough or stumbling when warm under light throttle below 3000rpm.

Dan Thompson (d...@adelphia.net)

If your EGR valve (left-most disk shaped object behind valve cover) is disconnected, hook it back up. Reach up under the EGR valve and touch the diaphragm while the engine is fully warmed and running. Lightly rev the engine between 2000 and 3000 rpm. If the EGR diaphragm flutters or moves erratically instead of opening and closing smoothly then I've got your solution.

Remove both vacuum hoses from BPT (right-most disk shaped object behind valve cover). Remove the two philips screws on its top. Push the BPT back toward the firewall. You should see a rubber hose running between the bottom of the BPT and a metal tube. Remove the BPT and rubber hose from the metal tube and set them aside.

This metal tube is connected to the EGR passage and, ultimately, to the exhaust manifold. Exhaust manifold pressure, via this metal tube, operat es the BPT valve which regulates the vacuum to, and the opening of, the EGR valve. The less exhaust manifold pressure - the more the BPT valve opens - the more the EGR valve opens. The more exhaust manifold pressure - the less the BPT valve opens - the less the EGR valve opens. Carbon may block this metal tube which causes the BPT to not operate properly (if at all) which causes the EGR valve to operate uncontrollably.

I waited until the car was cold, then I sprayed about a half can of carb and choke cleaner into the metal tube to soften up the blockage. I used a stiff piece of wire (a long chunk of 8 or 10 gauge wire left over from the big car stereo install will do) to ream out the tube. Please note: DO THIS WHEN THE CAR IS COLD!! Carb cleaner and a hot exhaust don't mix well.

Wait about 10 minutes for the chemicals to evaporate. Start the car and hold your finger in front of the metal tube. You should feel a steady stream of exhaust coming from it. If not, try cleaning it again.

While you're waiting for the chemicals to evaporate, now would be a good time to remove your EGR valve and clean the carbon deposits from the plunger and seat. I find that the carbon build up eventually gets bad enough to hold the EGR valve slightly open. This changes your base idle speed (TPS disconnected) and can also cause a rough and wandering idle. And GUESS WHAT!!?? If the build-up gets bad enough it can cause your SR20DE equipped ride to stall when you push in the clutch!!

Reassemble the system, hook your EGR valve back up and take your SR20DE out for a ride. You should find that the problem is gone and your local smog police will give you an award for being a law-abiding smog free citizen once more.

I make checking the metal tube and cleaning the EGR valve a part of every tune-up and/or oil change.

Regarding the stalling problems...

Jeremy Hoff (j...@email.csun.edu)

My roommate bought an NX2000 really cheap, because the thing didn't run too well. Once it was warm it would be okay, but cold the thing would stall and lunge and just seem a pitiful example of an SR20DE car... To make this short... we were lookin at his fuses to fix his dome light (another little problem) and notices the fuse marked "electronics" was blown. The car now runs excellent...

Leon McCalla (l...@caribbeanlink.com)

I had the same problem and it was a fuse. The explanation is as follows.Look at the ECCS wiring diagram page in the service manual. There is a 10a fuse that connects to the O2 sensor, the AIV control valve and the EGR canister control valve. My hunch was right. Between the O2 sensor being cold and the AIV control valve being permanently off, the engine was bound to act funny when it was cold. Poor readings and no feedback controll from the ECU!!!

The car hesitates, surges, and stumbles at low engine speeds (below 3000 rpm). Under moderate acceleration, the engine seems to hesitate near 2900 rpm.

Wen Han Roger Lim (l...@pilot.msu.edu)

Just a few suggestions.

Change Spark plugs & wires
Change Distributor cap and rotor
Check exhaust for leaks(for low mileage)
Your timing

Hope this helps. I had some of the problems you listed with my 92. Fixed them after going through the above list. The timing may only come into effect if you are running low octane gas. I run Sunoco 94.

John (s...@saclink1.csus.edu)

Does it stumble when it's cold or when it's warm? p> I just looked in my manual and it is the AAC. It stands for Auxiliary Air Control valve. It is part of the Idle Air Adjusting (IAA) unit. On it, it has a adjusting screw (near the oil filter). But before adjusting that, you should make sure your plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel filter, timing, air filter, and O2 sensor are alright. It's alot of stuff, but it's gotta get done.

You might also want to plug up your EGR valve. I've been told from the other guys on the list to do that. It helped me.

As far as the timing; Some guys said they can feel it while others couldn't. I never advanced mine because I got the JWT ECU from the get go and it doesn't require me to advance my timing. So I wouldn't know. You might get some heat from the tech (especially Nissan techs) if you ask them to advance the timing. If they advanced it, the best way to check it is with a timing light (don't forget to unplug your throttle position sensor (TPS)). If you can't do it yourself, ask a friend or take it to another place and ask them to CHECK the timing for you. Hope this helps.

Rick Zotz (r...@zotz.com)

Sounds like you [may] have the EGR valve problem. You could clean or replace the valve, but I recommend a favorite workaround. Remove the short hose between the EGR and BPT valves (those round metal "mushrooms" on top of the intake manifold) and cap the valve nipples. Your lighf-throttle sputtering will go away.

I've got a problem with low gas mileage problems. Any ideas?: Peter de Vries (p...@pretty.anu.edu.au)
Tried replacing your O2 sensor? Worked REAL well for me.

Oil Dipstick Tube...: Cary Lingg (c...@VNET.IBM.COM)
For those of you who have air conditioning in your SE-R you all know that it is not easy to get the dipstick out because of the air conditioning tube that runs right above it. I pull the hose back to get to the dipstick ring, but still need to wiggle it a little to get it to come out of the tube. Well, after 3 years of this I pulled the dipstick out and low and behold the tube came with it, right out of the block. When I change my oil I know how much comes out and I obviously know how much it is suppose to hold. I didn't know what the hell was going on when I thought it had the proper oil in it but it would never register as full on the dipstick oil level indicator. Knew I wasn't burning it and I know I didn't have a leak, very perplexing. Anyway I have come to find thru my local Nissan dealer that this is not uncommon with this setup, so I would recommend that all of you occasionally check that the seat at the bottom of your dipstick tube is flush with the block.

My clutch pedal no longer feels smooth. As I push it kinda grinds a bit. What can I do to fix this?: Robert Ar (r...@ea.oac.uci.edu)
Mine did that too. It also had the unlubricatable squeek. $14 and a trip to the dealer yielded a new clutch cable, and an end to my problems.

Fifth (5th) gear has started to pop out going down the highway?!!

Corey Slovick (s...@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu)

The consensus has been that this 5th gear problem is caused by people resting their hand on the shifter while cruising at highway speeds. Nissan explains that the cars pop out of gear due to a bent shift fork, usually only caused by this constant pressure on the shifter. Shift forks don't bend from hard shifts, they break. They only bend under constant pressure.

Lawrence Weeks (d...@dm2.deskmedia.com)

Nissan has changed/redesigned several components of our transmission. One part is the fifth input gear, which if manufactured or designed with improper tolerances could easily cause the problems we have had.

Passenger side water leaks from the A/C...

Jim Wright (w...@mail.apple.com)

See my instructions on my Maintenance Page.

I had this problem recently, pretty badly too. My wife and I were getting our feet wet from water dripping down on them during a road trip at night. When we stopped for a break the next morning, I went to check the hose, actually expecting it to be missing. But, it was there, and the end was bone dry, so I knew it was blocked. When I took the hose off, about 2 gallons of water gushed out. I found that the tube itself had somehow become kinked, so I just left it off as there was no easy way to straighten it out, and it's been just fine.

To locate the hose discussed there, pop the hood, then look on the passenger side where the AC lines run into the passenger compartment. You'll see two metal tubes, one about twice the size of the other. Look straight down from here about 8 inches or so, you'll see a large black rubber tube coming out and leading down at a 90 degree angle. The tube is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches in diameter, very thin rubber. Just pry this off after the AC has been running and you'll probably find some water will run out of the hole if it was actually blocked.

If the hose isn't there at all, you'll see an opening with a small tube (1/8 inch or so?) in the center. What's happening here is that with the tube not in place, the water isn't running off properly, and is actually dripping back into the passenger compartment. Go down to your local Nissan dealer and tell them that you need to get a replacement tube. Should fix you right up.

All of a sudden I'm starting to get water in my trunk. Anyone else have this problem? What's the fix? What should I check?

Scott Reid (s...@uccc.com)

I traced a trunk leak in my '91 to the screws on the piece of trim under the rear window. The screws go into little plastic grommet things, which had rubber gaskets, some of which had deteriorated. A little (ok, a lot) of silicone sealer took care of it.

Scott Fearing (s...@gwis2.circ.gwu.edu)

After dealing with several trunk leaks in different cars, I suggest you take a look at the gasket around the taillights. They get pushed around when parking and can be broken without showing it from the outside. It's been the culprit each time for me!

Ed Jansen (j...@icanect.net)

I concur...your tailights. Pull the carpeting around the taillights after it rains and check for leaks. I don't really know where the leak came in on mine but I filled the top of the taillamp lenses with sealant so that water would run over the lens instead of behind. It worked. Email me if this sounds confusing.

I'm experiencing bucking at low RPMs. Anyone else have this?: Rick Zotz (r...@zotz.com)
After verifying that all the usual stuff is OK (vacuum lines, ignition, etc.), I disconnected the hose from the EGR and close off the opening. Just pull that hose and cap the valve nipples. Bucking vanishes.

Anyone replace the turn signal/hazard control unit under the dash on a classic? My right front turn signal refuses to operate, but it still comes on when I turn the lights on. Hitting the stalk to signal a right turn results in the dash light and the right rear TS blinking twice as fast. When I hit the hazards, all three operational signals blink at the normal rate. I guess it _could_ be the right front bulb. Any advice?: Rey (h...@webquest.com)
Yep, its your bulb. The same thing happened to me when I broke my right front signal light in an accident.

I've got this wicked loud jingling when I start the car. Sounds like the timing chain or something. What the heck is it and what's the fix?

Rick Zotz (r...@zotz.com)

This sounds like the symptoms I had. Mine were excessive clatter at startup, jingling at idle, and a "mad cricket" sound at high RPM WOT that all began at around 70K miles. For 91-92 SR20DE, the TSB (TSB# NTB92-056) talks about "a rattle in the timing chain area for short period when the engine is started after a one night soak or at low RPM caused by a leak-down of oil in the chain tensioner."

There is an upgraded chain tensioner available. The re-designed "countermeasure" part is superior to the factory one, a difference easily seen when both are viewed side by side. The oil chamber is larger, with a much larger passage to allow greater flow and pressure. A fresh O-ring is already installed on the new tensioned. The new gasket is a crimped, two-piece metal design, compared to the single stamping and rubber insert of the old one.

Installing the new tensioner seems to have eliminated this problem, but time will tell. The startup rattle had lessened somewhat prior to replacement, as temps in this area have been well below the 100-degree mark of recent weeks. Prices and part numbers:

Chain tensioner	13070-02J200	$32
Gasket	13079-2J200	$7

This procedure will require 30 minutes and can be done alone. If your next oil change is soon, I recommend you do it immediately after installing the new tensioner, saving the trouble of removing the filter again. Tools: small ratchet, long 10mm socket, small rag, oil pan.

Let the car cool down.
Place the oil pan under the car beneath the oil filter area. Oil will drip from the filter during removal.
Remove the oil filter. IMPORTANT: wrap the rag around the filter shaft to block the passages to the engine and prevent tiny parts from falling in.
Remove the top nut and washer from the tensioner. Use the ratchet and 10mm socket.
Remove the bottom nut and washer SLOWLY, so the tensioner won't pop out and send them flying.
The tensioner should partly pop out. If not, tap it lightly with the end of the ratchet until it does.
Jiggle and rotate the tensioner until you can remove it past the oil shaft.
Ensure that the new tensioner is locked, with plunger fully retracted and the catch engaged with the lock pin. Coat the O-ring with a light film of motor oil.
Orient the new gasket "wings up", and slide it onto the mounting studs.
Orient the new tensioner "teeth up", and SLOWLY slide it into the hole until the studs reveal enough thread to start the washers and nuts.
Dribble some threadlock on the nuts if you are concerned about them backing off. Install the top washer and nut but do not tighten.
Install the bottom washer and nut. Tighten both nuts to about 6 ft-lb (normal hand tightening is OK).
Remove the rag and install the oil filter (or change the oil and filter now).
Start the engine. The chain should clatter for about three seconds then operate silently. If you are concerned about this, crank the engine a few times without the coil wire attached to build some oil pressure, then start.
Check for leaks, then go for a test drive. You're done!

I hear a "groaning" like sound from the front of the car when deceleration and/or cornering. What could be the cause?

Rick Zotz (r...@zotz.com)

Like several others on the list, my '92 SE-R was groaning from the area around the front passenger footwell. The noise occurred on heavy deceleration and suspension compression. For months, I thought the front control arm bushings might be worn from the lowered stance of the Eibach springs, until I re-installed the stock springs and the noise grew worse and more frequent. It sounded like something was ready to break.

The engine rocked back and forth a lot, so I suspected the rear motor mount (called "rear insulator") was worn from the torque. It was somewhat collapsed, so I replaced it. (The procedure for this is given below.) The groaning continued.

I went to the dealer to compare my right motor mount (called "front insulator", the expensive, fluid-filled one) to the one in a new SE-R, and sure enough, mine was collapsed. I replaced it. (The procedure for this is also given below.) This time, the groaning vanished. A new right mount IS the cure. The left motor mount (called the "rear engine mounting") looked good, so I'll wait until next year. Prices and part numbers are as follows:

Front Insulator (aka: right motor mount)	11210-0M800	$85
Rear Insulator (aka: rear motor mount)	11320-0M002	$56

Replacing leaking tranmission switches...

Rick Zotz (r...@zotz.com)

My '92 SE-R had been dripping transmission fluid for a few months. The seals seemed good, but I discovered leaking switches. I smeared sealant on the rubber boots, but this helped only for a couple of months. The leaks turned critical. The only real solution was to replace the switches.

Purchase the following parts:

Reverse lamp switch (32005-70E10)	$20
Neutral switch (32006-51J60)	$13

The switch with the fancy harness is cheaper. Go figure.

The following procedure takes two hours and can be done alone. You will have to drain the transmission, so buy four fresh quarts of your favorite gear oil, or empty the used oil into a clean pan for refill.

Tools: ramps or jackstands; floor jack; 19mm open-end wrench; ratchets in 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" sizes; 10mm socket; various flat and Phillips screwdrivers; big pliers; oil pan; transmission funnel and hose; white Teflon plumbing tape; wire cutters.

Is it worth saving $100 in labor? You be the judge.

Open the hood so you get some light from above.
Remove the inner splash shield from the left wheelwell with the 10mm socket and ratchet.
Place the jack under the lower engine support and lift the car a few inches.
Drain the transmission fluid: place the oil pan under the transmission, remove the fill plug with the 3/8" ratchet, then remove the drain plug with the 1/2" ratchet. Install the drain plug, then lightly screw in the fill plug.
Lower the car, then put your car on ramps or jackstands (I used my trusty Tru-Cut Ultra Ramps). DON'T let the car idle in neutral while you aim the ramps. You don't want precious parts spinning in there without fluid!
Reach up inside the left wheelwell above the transmission and detach the couplers for the reverse lamp switch.
Remove the mounted coupler and bracket with the 10mm socket and ratchet. Cut the harness from the switch.
Remove the coupler from the bracket using your preferred tool and method of brute force. Remount the bracket.
Remove the old reverse lamp switch with the 19mm wrench.
Wrap the threads of the new reverse lamp switch with Teflon plumbing tape, then install switch, being careful not to twist the cable.
Mount the coupler on its bracket, then connect the opposite coupler. Be sure the harness is secured under the stay.
Install the splash shield.
Remove the air cleaner, MAF, intake duct, and resonator using appropriate tools.
Cut the harness from the old neutral switch, then remove the switch with the 19mm socket.
Reach from above the transmission however you can and detach the couplers. Bend the mounted coupler and its bracket upward. Yank the coupler off the bracket with big pliers and brute force.
Wrap the threads of the new neutral switch with Teflon plumbing tape, then install the switch, being careful not to twist the cable. Run the cable up above the transmission.
From above the car, mount the coupler on its bracket, then connect the opposite coupler.
Install all of the intake components.
Lower the car. Again, if moving off ramps, avoid spinning in neutral.
Remove the fill plug, and fill the transmission with gear oil until some drips out of the fill hole. Install the fill plug.
Close the hood and go for a drive! Check for leaks upon return.

Replacing the rear insulator (aka: rear motor mount)...

Rick Zotz (r...@zotz.com)

This procedure requires about 2 hours. I performed it alone in about 4 hours, taking extra time to fix bent components, repaint the center member, and inspect the suspension. Tools: ramps or jackstands, two jacks, wood blocks, ratchet, 14mm socket, 10mm socket, and WD40 for easy bolt twisting.

Put your car on ramps or jackstands (I used my trusty Tru-Cut Ultra Ramps).
Open the hood so you get some light from above.
Remove the front splash shields. A ratchet with 10mm socket works best.
Support the transmission with a jack and wood block, or sling the engine from above.
Loosen - don't remove - the crossbolt connecting the center of the rear insulator to its bracket. It's difficult to see. Use a 14mm socket, ratchet, and short extension.
Remove the lower crossbolt connecting the front buffer (the wimpy-looking mount) to the center member (the lower support beam). Use a ratchet and 14mm socket. (Manual transmission only)
Remove the front two bolts and plastic sleeves connecting the center member to the frame, then the rear bolts and sleeves. Use a ratchet and 14mm socket. Use an extension to reach the rear bolts. The center member will hang from the insulator.
Taking weight off the center member, slide out the crossbolt from the insulator and remove the center member.
Remove the old insulator from the center member with a ratchet and 14mm socket. Install the new insulator and tighten to 40 ft-lb.
If needed, grind and re-paint the lower surface of the center member. Mine had been heavily scraped from several impacts with road hazards (when I had Eibach springs).
If needed (while the paint dries), flatten the front mounting points for the center member. Mine had been mashed in from impacts with parking barriers (when I had Eibach springs). Slide a pair of wide, thick washers onto the threaded part of a mounting bolt, and SLOWLY screw in the bolt until tight. Repeat once or twice for each hole. The mounting point will be pulled flat to the frame.
Lift the center member into position with the second jack. Install the insulator crossbolt but do not tighten.
Lift the center member further until you can install the front mounting bolts and sleeves. Lift the center member a bit more and install the rear mounting bolts and sleeves. Tigthen all four bolts to 40 ft-lb.
Tighten the insulator crossbolt to 40 ft-lb.
Install the lower crossbolt for the front buffer and tighten to 40 ft-lb. (Manual transmission only)
Install the splash shields.
Remove the jacks, lower the car, and you're done!

Replacing the front insulator (aka: right motor mount)...

Rick Zotz (r...@zotz.com)

This procedure requires about 45 minutes and can be done alone. Tools: floor jack, scissors jack, wood panel (mine was about a foot square), ratchet, 14mm socket, long extension, U-joint.

Place the wood panel atop the scissors jack and raise the jack so it supports the engine across the full area of the oil pan (or sling the engine from above if a sling is available).
Remove the coolant resevoir. Rest it in front of the engine with the hose attached.
Remove the resevoir seat. Use a ratchet, extension, and 10mm socket.
Remove the insulator crossbolt. Use a ratchet and 14mm socket.
Re-check the jack supporting the engine. Slowly remove the three insulator attatchment bolts and remove the insulator. Use a ratchet, extension, U-joint (for center bolt) and 14mm socket.
Install the insulator only with the crossbolt, but do not tighten.
If necessary to align the holes for the attachment bolts, slightly lift the engine at a point on the A/C compressor bracket using the floor jack.
Install the three attachment bolts and tigthen to 40 ft-lb. Tighten the crossbolt to 40 ft-lb.
Install the resevoir seat and resevoir.
Remove the jacks, and you're done!

Problems with putting the car in reverse...

Robert Bonner (n...@unicomp.net)

I've heard several people on the list mention problems with putting the vehicle in reverse (for manual transmission). Now, I may not be addressing specific problems that may exist, but I was told you pretty much have two choices if the car will not go into reverse:

Put the transmission into first or second gear, then put the transmission in REVERSE.
While gently attempting to put the vehicle in REVERSE, let up on the clutch very slowly and just a little bit. The transmission will go into REVERSE very nicely without any jerking, unless you pop the clutch after you get it in reverse (weee isn't this fun!!!). This option may take some practice if you are not very accomplished at using a manual transmission.

Again, these instructions are not meant to insult anyone's intelligence but some people may actually not know this stuff.

Regrounding the MAF sensor...

Jim Wright (w...@mail.apple.com)

See my instructions on my Maintenance Page.

Peter de Vries (p...@durras.anu.edu.au)

Hey guys. As per the instructions on the web page, I checked out the MAF ground last night. I hope this is correct, but I checked the voltage between the ground wire at the MAF plug and the ground leads on the engine block. I had a voltage that varied between 14 and 15mv (0.014 - 0.015). Just a little bit too much methinks. I whipped up a nice earth wire and soldered up the wire to the existing earth wire and also soldered the other end to a new ground lug. Result? Less than 1mv!! Yipee!! Started the car and went for a drive. As soon as I was backing out the driveway I reckon it already felt different, smoother.

Here's the difference that I really like though. The smoothness of the engines response as you change from no throttle to light throttle, and vice versa, is HUGELY improved. Also my engine had a feeling as though it were hunting for the right mixture under light acceleration, producing a continuous light hesitation sort of feel. Like the mixture was too lean. This problem in also gone now.

I give this tech fix the highest rating of five asci smiley's!! :) :) :) :) :)

Justin Choi (p...@deltanet.com)

When you guys go out and do this kind of thing, be sure that you are regrounding the correct wire. My color code on the wires were a tad different then the ones on the web page and guess what.. I blew an ECU relay and a fusible link and my car wouldn't start. It gave a massive headache...

The air blower doesn't work on all four positions...: Wayne Cox (w...@erinet.com)
There's a little resistor module under the dash on the passenger side [behind the glovebox]. Easy to get to. 'Bout $23 to replace. Mine died 300 miles out of warranty. The replacement I got looked a lot better made.

The car doesn't start, but all the electrical stuff works fine. What could be wrong?: Mario Jorquera (M...@intergate.dot.gov)
I had an identical problem for years with my "91 SE-R. Many trips to the dealer failed to repair the problem. Finally, I discovered that the little tab on the clutch pedal that presses against the interlock switch was only pressing it part way. I put in a rubber electronic equipment "foot" from Radio Shack as a spacer on the tab, and it's worked fine ever since.

I hear a rattling from the trunk when I'm driving, but can't figure out what the source is. Anyone encounter this?

Lawrence Weeks (d...@deskmedia.com)

I had a very annoying creak/rattle from the trunk area for a while. This last Monday, I found the cause. My spare tire was underinflated, which, I suppose, let the rim rattle on the floor of the tire well, where a fully inflated tire rests on the rubber.

Mike Hill (m...@usatpoc.gannett.com)

For everyone experiencing the trunk rattle, I managed to solve mine about a year ago. Went to hechinger (or any home store) and bought self-adhesive, 3/8 thick weatherstripping tape. I cant remember how wide it was, but it filled the space above the latching mechanism on the trunk. This worked extremely well.

Matt Trostel (m...@metronet.com)

I solved it by putting a little bead of silicon sealant on the bottom of each of the four rubber "bumpers" on the inside of the trunk lid. If you want to test to see if you have the same problem, fold up a couple Kleenexes into little squares and tape them to the bottom of the big "bumpers." If the rattle goes away, you can go to a more permanent solution like silicone.

Patrick (j...@netscape.com)

I've had a similar problem with my NX. The problem with my NX is that my hatch release wasn't releasing. My solution and what I recommend for you to do, is to look not at the u-shaped hook, but the latching mechanism that it plugs into. You can actually loosen that and bring it towards the ground ever-so-slightly and then tighten it up again. The larger distance will make the hatch shut tighter and should add enough pressure to remove the noise entirely. It worked great for me!

Randy R (7...@CompuServe.COM)

On my '92 Sentra, also check the lid's torsion bars (under the rear window), which if they've been pushed a bit can rattle against each other or something. I eased them a bit and rattle's long gone.

Recently, the windows in my '91 SE-R have been become increasingly hard to roll up and down. Anyone have a fix?

Wayne Cox (w...@erinet.com)

Got the same prob in my '92. I found the rubber channel that the glass runs in was torn. The rubber is a "U" shaped cross section that runs all the way around the sides and top of the door glass. The lower front portion (inside th3e door) was split and had a strip of rubber hanging loose binding the glass. I cut out the loose part and lubed the channel with silicone. It goes up now without feeling like the handle is gonna break off. But I've got a replacement on order from B&B - $60 retail (oww.) but they've got teflon slides molded in.

If you got the TSBs, there is one covering window problems in the early production classics. It details fixes and adjustments to make stuff right.

Mike Garner (m...@richmond.infi.net)

Try asking your dealer about this...my dealer fixed this free of charge on my '92 as part of what he called a "silent recall". The cause: the plastic socket that the crank goes into is cheap plastic and strips, causing the weather-striping to become torn - making it hard as hell to raise and lower the window. Eventually the glass will fall loose of the mechanism. It could be that you have the same prob and could get it fixed for free. Hope this helps.

Peter de Vries (p...@durras.anu.edu.au)

I went to auto shop and got myself a little "puff" bottle of powdered graphite and puffed a bit of it into the window runners and wound the window up and down about 20 times. each time it went up and down and worked that graphite into the tracks, it just got easier and easier. It now slips up and down almost frictionless. I don't know how long treatment will last for. Just have to wait and see. But for now, I have a happy window and no more busted knuckles.

I have a case of chronic condensation in one/both of the headlights on my SE-R. What can I do about this?

Mike (m...@dcsd.sj.nec.com)

This is a known and common problem. There's a TSB on it. I took it to the dealer while I was still under warranty and they swapped out the whole lens assembly. The first time I took it in, he had trouble duplicating it, because it had been a week since I washed the car (which caused the condensation). The next time I brought it in the day after washing with the condensation still there.

Doug Dryburgh (d...@secbde.secsigbde.army.mil)

I had the same problem with my 1992. The only way I was able to get rid of it was (hate to admit it) was buy a new headlight from JC Whitney. That was over a year ago and I have not had a problem since. I think that Nissan designed the original assembly wrong and the after market firm Whitney buys from has corrected the design flaw. Light cost me $55.00 plus shipping. I normally don't like to buy electronics from them, but in this case, it paid off. You might want to try it.

Dead stock fog lamps...

Matt Ma (M...@aol.com)

It's possibly the fuse. If you follow the wires from the fog lamp relay (near the master cylinder), you'll see that the fog lamps are powered directly from the battery, independant of the rest of the car's wiring. On the power lead, there is a small plastic enclosure. Open it and you'll find a small blade fuse. I'm 99% sure that it's blown. I had the same symptoms you did and this was the problem. [Editorial note: This procedure is applicable to early classics. I believe later models (93+) may have had this fused located differently. If nothing else, the relay itself was located differently.]

Ronald S. Chong (r...@umich.edu)

I'll add that before you change the fuse, you should pop out the fogs and make sure that what ever caused the short isn't just gonna cause a new fuse to blow. I'm personally convinced that the design of the fogs is the fault. The wires behind the lens gets smashed up against one another when you install the lens. And in the center of the cup that the lens gets clipped into, there's a flat round knob that i think is metallic!! (i need to double check.) i've put electrical tape over potential short points on the back of each lens. a good tape job should do the trick.

I can hear my fuel pump make some noise when it's been sitting for a bit and then I just turn the key to "ON". If I crank over the car, I never notice it because of the noise of the engine cranking and then running. The noise sounds like an air pump buzzing away.: Mike Hill (m...@usatpoc.gannett.com)
The noise is simply your fuel pump priming itself. Since the pump is located underneath the back seat, it is very audible. I think someone on the list told me about this a long time ago. I used to hear it alot, just after i'd turn the engine off. Anyway, no need to fear.

My SE-R makes a buzzing sound from the dash area that is RPM dependent (3500 or 4000 RPM I think). It modulates with RPM's and is very annoying. It sounds like something is rubbing. Any fixes?

James Lng (J...@aol.com)

Like some of you here, my instrument cluster would rattle at 3000rpm and up. Strangely, it only did it when I was moving, and not when "dead-revving" in neutral. Quite by accident, I noticed that the noise disappeared if I pushed the speedo-cable inward towards the instrument cluster. Unfortunately, the noise came back in a day or so.

After some more investigating, I finally figured it out: The speedo-cable is attached to other hoses and stuff with a couple of plastic clips. These clips hold the cable rigidly and prevent it from moving around. However, when the engine/transmission rocks over under load, it tugs on the cable, yanking it away from the instrument cluster and you get that annoying rattle. By simply releasing those plastic clips, you give the cable the slack it needs when the motor rocks over, and it doesn't stress out the instrument cluster any more.

My car has been noise-free for a couple of months now, and high-revs are tons more fun ;-)

The lug nut covers on my stock wheels are beginning to fade and flake, revealing the yellow plastic underneath. Any solutions other than buying new covers?: See the comment on the Maintenance page of the FAQ.

I seem to have a slow leak coming from somewhere just above the oil pan but I can't find the source. Any clues?: Dominique Cormann (d...@netcom.ca)
I once did an oil change, and when I took off the filter, the rubber gasket from it stay on the engine. I never noticed, and put the new filter on. Now there are two rubber gaskets there. The thing never really sealed, and dripped a bit. BUT only when I drove. So I didn't get a puddle in my driveway right away. Very dangerous. If I wasn't so anal about checking my oil levels often, I wouldn't have noticed. I checked the filter, and saw what I had done. Problem solved.

The other day as I has approaching home, I noticed a very unsettling purcolating or bubbling noise coming from the center of the dash board. There doesn't seem to be any loss of power or fluid leaking. Seems to be intermittant since I didn't notice it today. Does anyone have have any ideas???: Gene (mean_gene@VNET.IBM.COM)
It is the coolant flowing through a partially open heater core valve. Try this at home: As soon as you hear the noise, slam the temperature lever to hot or cold, assuming it's in the middle. It should immediately stop. If it doesn't, you need to adjust it somehow. If it is making the noise and you are all the way in the cold direction, the valve is not completely closed and you A/C is really pissed at you for forcing it to cool slightly heated air!!! I know a radio car talk show guy said he always installed a shutoff valve in line with the heater core inlet. In the summer, he would block all coolant from sneaking past to the heater core. Result: COLDER A/C!!! Haven't done it myself but it sounds good.

There seems to be a problem with the Check Engine light on the 95+ SE-Rs. Here's one fix.

Jay Groesser (g...@prism.gatech.edu)

The check engine light flicked on last week, and I finally got to the dealer today. With some advice from the list, I went in with some knowedge of a faulty egr hose. I ask the guy and right away he says they just put out a TSB that states that the hose on the 200 is actually to small a diameter on the inside. They replaced for free and no problems yet. I asked if it will be recalled and he says no, but they will replace for all who inquire (cheap way out of it I guess).

Ken Pratte (k...@bit-net.com)

When I took delivery of my '96 in October of '95 the check engine light came on about 2 hours after I left the lot. I brought it in the next day and they said I had a kinked EGR hose. Their solution, unkink it.

It ran fine, no check engine light, until this Spring. Light came on, they replaced the EGR backpressure valve. Light came on again, replaced EGR solenoid valve. Light came on again and they replaced the EGR hose. 30 seconds down the road, light came on again, they then replaced the EGR hose again.

The last hose was replaced around June and so far, I haven't had any problems. If I have ANY more problems with the EGR system, I'll probably lose it and demand the 6 year/100K warranty, etc, after a couple of free oil changes. Right now, I hoping it's fixed.

Has anyone had the problem of exiting/entering your vehicle and receiving a very large shock when touching the door, ignition, or anything metal? This has been bothering me for about a month now.

Leon McCalla (l...@caribbeanlink.com)

I think it's the seat cover material. i get arround the exit shock by doing these steps.

when you stop the car, open the door but dont exit yet.
place your hand on the external body frame while you are still in the car!! (usually the door skin)
put your foot on the ground while you are in the car (this allows you to safely equate the static between the car, you body and the ground)
get out the car and close the door without letting go of the door skin (your shock depends on this)

If you didn't break contact with the door you wont get shocked.

I popping sound coming from the B-pillar. Anyone have a solution?

Matt Trostel (m...@metronet.com)

I had that sound also. My car has a sunroof. The noise would come and go. Over slight bumps it would make a popping noise right where the driver's side B-pillar met the roof, near the rear left corner of the sunroof. If I pushed up on the headliner, the noise would go away as long as I kept pressure on it.

One day I decided to look at it. I took the plastic B-pillar cover off and took apart the dome light. Then I took the strip off of the headliner that surrounds the sunroof opening. With that stuff off and the sunroof open I could pull the headliner down enough to be able to look around a little. I decided not to disassemble anything else. I did notice that there was a little bracket near where the noise was coming from. It may support the sunroof assembly but it may just connect the B-pillar to the roof and therefore would be on all cars. I think it had 2 bolts in it. Just for the hell of it I decided to spray a little Silicone lubricant between the bracket and the sheetmetal/steel that it was bolted to. I was careful not to use too much because I didn't want it dripping on and staining the headliner. I put everything back together and hadn't heard a peep (or pop) from it in over a year. Hope this solves your problem.

Lately, my seatbelts haven't been spooling back in the way they used to. Has anyone tried to fix this themselves?: Steve H (S...@aol.com)
According to my '93 SE-R owner's manual (U.S. version), safety related items like seatbelts and air bags are warrantied for the life of the car, as long as they haven't sustained any accident related damage. If you have any problems with your seatbelts, just take the car in and it'll be fixed for free.

Problem with turn signal lights...: Scott A Johnson (scott_j@swbell.net)
My right front turn signal refused to operate, but it still came on when I turn the lights on. Hitting the stalk to signal a right turn resulted in the dash light and the right rear TS blinking twice as fast. When I hit the hazards, all three operational signals blink at the normal rate. I wasn't sure what to check, but I changed the right front turn signal bulb and it _did_ fix the problem. It probably took about 1 minute total time to do it, since the signal lens is only held in by one screw.

The SE-R FAQ
Maintained by Ronald S. Chong (r...@umich.edu)