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Where to get performance parts...

[Editorial note: This is an imcomplete listing places where list members have ordered performance parts from..]

Vendor's Name Phone Type of parts
Nissan Motorsports (NISMO) 310-538-2610 Various parts
Strano Performance Parts 800.729.1831 We can do about 500 product lines, all kinds of parts for all cars and trucks, not just Nissans. I don't really have a list of parts, but I can give you a pretty good idea of the things I can do for the cars. Remember this isn't everything, but it's the big stuff.

  • Exhaust: Borla, HKS, Trust, Dynomax, Bosal (lifetime warranty OE repalcement)
  • K&N Filters
  • Tokico, KYB, Sachs/Boge, Bilstein, GAB, Koni (and I can get the american junkers too, but why)
  • Bosch, NGK ignition parts
  • Repco, Hawk, Porterfield
  • Redline oils
  • Centerforce Clutches
  • Suspension Techniques sway bars and springs
  • Eibach sway bars and springs
  • Tokico springs
  • Hotshot Headers and intakes
  • Brake rotors (sometimes Brembo, but always a name brand piece)
  • Remanufactured calipers
  • Complete line of Original Equipment replacement parts

I guess that's the big stuff, if there is something you are after, but don't see give me a call and I'll see what I can do. Ask for Sam Jr.

Stillen 800.221.6234 varied
Jim Wolf Technologies 619.442.0680 ECU, intakes, cams, pressure plates
Brake Wharehouse (Florida) 800.321.6926 brakes, duh

I am a college kid that knows nothing about cars but am interesting in simple ways to increase hp/performance on my SE-R.

Merlin Johnson (

The easiest and fairly inexpensive mods are a Stillen exhuast, and Stillen Hi-Flow intake, those should be good for around 10hp....IMO the Stillen hp figures are overrated. You could put both of these pieces on in a afternoon with hand tools. You will notice a nice difference. After that and mods jump way up in price.

For good street performance and comfort, go with a shock/spring combination like Tokico/Eibach, Tokico/Tokico, or Tokico/Suspension Techniques. Unless you want the show look stay away from the Eibach Sportline springs.

D. Eric Anderson (

Generally the first mods that get done are to the breathing of the car. Specifically, the exhaust and intake. I just bought the Stillen hi-flow exhaust and POP intake air filter, shipped for under $400. I haven't even gotten them on yet :(. Anyway, from there usually the computer gets the upgrade nod, sometimes with the throttle body. This is the order that the Stillen catalog lists, and I generally agree with it. The other mods like headers and cams aren't very common... yet! They generally should come last anyway.

For handling, it's generally accepted that everything pretty well gets done at once. But, the most important part seems to be to the the springs and shocks first, and at the same time.

I have a few concerns about these add-ons, and I was hoping that some of you could address these issues before I took the plunge. Durability: Will these modifications change the expected life of my car? My is over 100k miles, almost all highway miles and the car's well cared for and running like new, but miles are miles. Should I think twice before trying to coax more power from my engine? Emissions/ Legality: Are all of these modifications legal in all states? Are they likely to remain so? I'll pass inspection, right?

Merlin Johnson (

Those addons should do nothing to hurt your durability or gas mileage (depending on your right foot of course). The mods won't change the life of your car. I have had my add ons for 50k miles, not a peep from the car as far as complaints. I have not seen anything start to go wrong that wasn't or isn't a problem with all our cars.

Right now the POP charger from Jim Wolf (I dont think the Stillen one, even though they are exactly the same) has a CARB exemption number. To my knowledge nothing else does. You will pass CA emissions with the POP, ECU, TB, Exhaust. The only time you might be putting out more stuff is at WOT. The Headers will pass the sniffer test, not really any different than stock. They will not pass Ca visual, or cold start. Having the headers (and I have noticed the car is a bit pickier, hesitant when cold) doesnt let the cat get up to temperature quick enough. No header I dont think can pass the new cold start tests, too much heat escapes through the tubes for that.

I would like to know if anyone here has had any problems with dealers complaining about aftermarket performance products being used on our cars. Anybody ever have warranty work reefused because of performance mods?

Wayne Cox (

As I understand it, legally they have to be able to prove the mod contributed to the problem. They also cannot dictate that you must use factory replacement parts for wear items, as long as an aftermarket replacement conforms to the original design it's ok.

So suspension parts and wheels are no problem. The ECU would never be noticed unless they had need to take it out. But I think any mods to the air intake system, or internal engine parts could be a trouble spot. It'd be easy to say that the parts let dirt in and/or made the engine run lean, thus contributing to your scored cylinders/spun rod bearings/holes in pistons, etc.

When I was still concerned about warranty, I always put the air box back in place of the POP. When I was trying to get my mileage/power problem fixed I put the muffler back on too, just to eliminate variables they could point at.

Once I took it in for a noise in the front end with the exhaust system installed. Mechanic said he couldn't hear anything over the exhaust, and the noise might be muffler hitting heat shield. D'oh! It's in the *front* you jerk. Oh well, it went away on its own a few months later.

On dealing with performance muffler noise...

Matthew A. Trostel (

I put a Stillen muffler on a couple weeks ago. It was a little louder than I expected, too. After installing it, I thought about how to reduce the noise a little. I decided to take a few measurements before I started experimenting. I drove to an open parking lot and made sound measurements with an SPL meter at various RPM's. I also measured the peak level during a second gear, full throttle, idle to 6000 RPM run.

Since then, I purchased a sheet of Dynamat Super and put it on the floor of the trunk directly over the muffler. It covers the entire passenger side of the trunk floor not including the spare tire well. The difference is dramatic. I haven't gotten around to taking another set of measurements but it made a noticeable difference. It is louder than the stock muffler was, but a good deal quieter than the Stillen before the Dynamat. I am VERY pleased. It's still quite a bit louder than stock under moderate and heavy acceleration but if you aren't pushing it, it's fairly unobtrusive. Cruising at 75 mph is a little loud, but this is a Nissan Sentra, not a Lexus LS400. When I get motivated to take another set of SPL measurements, I'll post the results.

Matthew A. Trostel (

After installing the Stillen muffler I made some SPL (Sound Pressure Level) measurements. Since making the original measurements, I have installed a sheet of Dynamat Super on the passenger side of the trunk floor, directly over the muffler. I also put a sheet of Original Dynamat on the plastic piece that fits vertically behind the back seat (in the trunk).

I used a Tenma digital SPL meter to take the measurements. All decibel readings are C-weighted (almost flat) and were obtained by taking the max reading at the drivers seat with the windows and sunroof closed. Below is the before and after SPL data.

Engine Speed (RPM)SPL before Dynamat (dB)SPL after Dynamat (dB)Difference (dB)
Idle ~75091.287.2-4.0
Full throttle 2nd gear run from idle to 6000 RPM111.9108.5-3.4

I wanted to note that the car mags usually measure sound using A-weighting instead of the C-weighting I used. I could have/should have used A-weighting but I had already taken the before measurements when I noticed. Don't panic because all the car mags have 70 and 80 dB measurements. Regardless of the weighting type, the differences between before and after measurements will be the same. These differences are also given in the table.

Wayne Cox (

3dB is half the sound energy while 10dB is half the perceived sound pressure. Very impressive reduction, nevertheless, and I'll be rushing out to buy some! I know I've seen it in Crutchfield.

Dan Thompson (

Instead of using Dynamat, I got some generic stuff called Sound Deadener Pad (original, huh?) from MCM Electronics in Ohio. It costs $1.25 to $1.50 per square foot instead of the $3.50 to $5.50 of the Dynamat. It may not work as wall as the Dynamat, but for the same money I can covered the entire trunk floor (and then some).

MCM Electronics: (800) 543-4330

Use the 29"x32" pads (part no. 60-2015; $7.99 ea.). They are easier to work with and cost the least per square foot.

Bryant Woo (

I ordered 3 29"x32" sheets of imitation dynamat from MCM electronics. Anyways, I lined the trunk (with a little less than 2 sheets) this weekend, including the spare tire compartment.

The initial results? It works! It's been raining a lot lately in california, and the first thing I noticed was that there's a lot less water splashing sound and road noise coming from the back of the car. I don't have an exhaust yet, but soon. I'll also line what's underneath the backseat.

I'd highly recommend this very inexpensive "add-on" for anyone who feels their exhaust is too loud.

Just as a note, each 29" x 32" sheet weighs about 5 lbs.

Maintained by Ronald S. Chong (