Replacement:
SR20DE Motor Mounts

Photos!

Like several others on the SE-R Mailing Llist, my '92 SE-R was groaning from the area around the front passenger footwell. The noise occurred on heavy deceleration and suspension compression. For months, I thought the front control arm bushings might be worn from the lowered stance of the Eibach springs, until I re-installed the stock springs and the noise grew worse and more frequent. It sounded like something was ready to break.

The engine rocked back and forth a lot, so I suspected the rear motor mount (called 'rear insulator') was worn from the torque. It was somewhat collapsed, so I replaced it. The groaning continued.

I went to the dealer to compare my right motor mount (called 'front engine mounting', the expensive, fluid-filled one) to the one in a new SE-R, and sure enough, mine was collapsed. I replaced it, and the groaning vanished. A new right mount IS the cure. The left motor mount (called the 'rear engine mounting') looked good, so I'll wait until it fails.

Purchase the following parts:

Front Engine Mounting (Right Motor Mount)	11210-0M800
Rear Insulator (Rear Motor Mount)	11320-0M002

 

Right Motor Mount

 

This procedure requires about 45 minutes and can be done alone.

 

Tools and supplies: hydraulic floor jack; scissor jack; wood panel (mine was about a foot square); ratchet; 14mm socket; ;long extension; U-joint.

View the photos before beginning!

 

• Place the wood panel atop the scissor jack and raise the jack so it supports the engine across the full area of the oil pan (or sling the engine from above if a sling is available).
• Remove the coolant reservoir. Rest it in front of the engine with the hose attached.
• Remove the reservoir seat using a ratchet, extension, and 10mm socket.
• Remove the insulator pivot bolt using a ratchet and 14mm socket.
• Re-check the jack supporting the engine. Slowly remove the three engine attachment bolts and remove the mount with a ratchet, extension, U-joint (for center bolt) and 14mm socket.
• Install the new mount only with the pivot bolt, but do not tighten.
• If necessary to align the holes for the attachment bolts, slightly lift the engine at a point on the air conditioning compressor bracket using the floor jack.
• Install the three attachment bolts and tighten to 40 ft-lb. Tighten the pivot bolt to 40 ft-lb.
• Install the reservoir seat and reservoir.
• Remove the jacks, and you're done!

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Rear Motor Mount

 

This procedure requires about 2 hours. I performed it alone in about 4 hours, taking extra time to fix bent components, repaint the center member, and inspect the suspension.

 

Tools and supplies: ramps or jackstands; two jacks; wood blocks; ratchet; 14mm socket; 10mm socket; WD40 for easy bolt twisting.

View the photos before beginning!

 

• Put your car on ramps or jackstands (I used my Tru-Cut Ultra Ramps).
• Open the hood so you get some light from above.
• Before proceeding, take the opportunity to inspect the lower drivetrain and undercarriage, including all seals, boots, fasteners, and things that can shake loose.
• Remove the front splash shields using a ratchet and 10mm socket.
• Support the transmission with a jack and wood blocks (or sling the engine from above).
• Loosen - don't remove - the pivot bolt connecting the center of the mount insulator to its bracket on the lower support beam. It's difficult to see. Use a 14mm socket, ratchet, and short extension.
• Manual transmission only: remove the lower bolt connecting the front buffer (the "dog bone") to the support beam. Use a ratchet and 14mm socket.
• Remove the front two bolts and plastic sleeves connecting the support beam to the frame, then the rear bolts and sleeves. Use a ratchet and 14mm socket. Use an extension to reach the rear bolts. The beam will hang from the mount.
• Taking weight off the beam, slide out the pivot bolt from the mount and remove the beam.
• Remove the old mount from the beam using a ratchet and 14mm socket.
• If needed, grind and re-paint the lower surface of the support beam. Mine had been heavily scraped from several impacts with road hazards (when I had Eibach springs).
• If needed (while the paint dries), flatten the front mounting points for the beam. Mine had been mashed in from impacts with parking barriers (when I had Eibach springs). Slide a pair of wide, thick washers onto the threaded part of a mounting bolt, and SLOWLY screw in the bolt until tight. Repeat once or twice for each hole. The mounting point will be pulled flat to the frame.
• Install the new mount on the support beam and tighten to 40 ft-lb.
• Lift the support beam into position with the second jack. Install the mount pivot bolt but do not tighten.
• Lift the beam further until you can install the front mounting bolts and sleeves. Lift the beam a bit more and install the rear mounting bolts and sleeves. Tighten all four bolts to 40 ft-lb.
• Tighten the mount pivot bolt to 40 ft-lb.
• Manual transmission only: install the lower bolt for the front buffer and tighten to 40 ft-lb.
• Install the splash shields.
• Remove the jacks, lower the car, and you're done!

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Rick's SE-Rious Procedures

Original material is the creation of Rick Zotz, 1999, 1998, 1997, and has been contributed to SE-R.net.